OUR BYOP POLICY
YES!
THAT'S RIGHT!
WE ARE THE SOUTHEAST'S ONLY Bring Your Own Paint PRODUCER!
WHY??
CHOICE.
As a former player,
I know the pains of getting "stuck" with a producer's paint choice.
Face it... A lot of people like a certain kind of paint. A
certain brand they know is always good or consistent. A
certain ball diameter ["bore"] that works well with their gun.
A certain color that they can see fly through the air easier.
A certain color that their hopper's "eye" can see better. A
certain fill thickness. A certain ball that's better for colder or
warmer or more humid weather.
So... WHY get stuck
with one producer's or field's choice???
Here, you can play
with MOST* any kind of paint that you want. The only
exclusions are for obvious reasons.
1) You can't use
a ball that has a RED fill.
This is for obvious
reasons... nobody wants to freak out when their kid comes walking
toward them with what looks like a gaping wound.
2)
You can't use a ball that stains people's clothes.
Again - for obvious
reasons...
How can I tell
if a paint I'm looking at will stain, you might ask?
Answer:
If you're buying it from "ABC-Mart",
odds are it will stain.
Seriously... Look and
ask around. If no field or paintball store sells that type or
brand of paint, its probably for a reason. If your friends aren't
using it, its probably for a reason. Here's some tips:
HOOP'S HANDY
TIPS FOR BUYING PAINT
A) Buy it from
a reputable place - preferably a paintball store. Most places
don't stay in business selling paint to people that need paint and
new clothes the next time they play. Buying at a paintball
store also helps guarantee freshness.
At a paintball store, you can open up the box and "look around"
before you buy it. Open the box.
Look for any paint [really bad sign]. Open a bag up and smell
it - if it smells like fish, throw it back. Most
paintball stores have a liberal return policy with their vendors, so
you're not putting them out by pointing out that case of paint is
damaged or stale.
B) Buy a reputable brand of paint. There's "cheap"
paint, and there's "CHEAP" paint. Take jeans,
for example... There's the real "Levi's" version and there's the
knock off version. Knock off brands are half the price and
usually don't last for long until belt loops snap off, holes start
forming in the knees, etc. SURE... you CAN buy the knock offs,
but WHY? DON'T buy some "junk" brand of paint that NO field or
online paintball store sells, anywhere, just because its $2 cheaper
at ABC-Mart than it is at other paint at other places. If a
paintball store will not sell it, it is probably for a reason.
C) When it
comes to paintball, you want a ball that will fly straight.
That means a ball with a consistent, uniform size, with no dimples,
little or no "seam" and all of the balls in the bag should be about
the same size, give or take a 0.02 bore size. Your gun likely
has a 0.68 barrel on it. Your best shot will come when the
ball is JUST smaller than your barrel's inner
diameter. The tighter the fit, the less air it takes [loose
fitting balls let more air escape around the ball, rather than
pushing the ball] and the more consistent your speed is. When
you shoot "cheap" paint that ranges wildly in size, your shots are
all over the place AND at all kinds of different speeds.
You want a consistent ball, fitted to your barrel.
Ball-to-barrel fit is largely overlooked by inexperienced players.
Don't be "that guy."
Going to a paintball
store, again, is a great thing because you can take your barrel and
take a ball out of a bag and test it out. Put the ball in by
hand, then blow on it. It should be fairly tight, and it
should take some force to blow it out. If you turn blue in the
face before it comes out, or if it rolls out the other end before
you start blowing, you've got the wrong paint for your barrel.
"OTHER" SUGGESTIONS:
Don't, don't,
don't .. pick up paintballs and put them in your gun.
Remember that paint to barrel matching thing above? Guess what
happens when you run paint with small dirt [visible or not] through
a gun at 200 MPH? If you guessed that it nicks and gouges the
inside of the barrel, creating burrs that'll eventually bust open
your paintballs, creating hit-or-miss holes around the ball for air
to go around that end up creating/adding "spin" to your balls that
will end up meaning your balls go 10 different directions each time
you fire it .. you're right! Just don't do it. Don't end
up having to buy a $40 barrel to fix the problem $0.40 worth of
dirty balls created.
Freshness matters.
As paintballs age, the shells become more/less brittle. You
can usually tell by the smell. Gummy or brittle balls won't
fly straight, won't break on contact as intended, and sometimes
won't even make it out of your barrel.
Paintballs are just a
gelatin shell [think "Jello"]. If you get the shell wet, it
gets slimy and it sticks to other shells. If you freeze it, it
shrinks. If you get it hot, it expands. Change the
temperature from hot to cold several times and it dimples and/or
loses its round shape. Put pressure on it, it dimples and/or
loses its round shape. NONE of those things are good for a
paintball. You want to keep the size of the ball as consistent
as possible so that the ball-to-barrel match is good. If it is
cold outside, put your paint inside where it is room temperature.
If you take it from room temperature outside into the cold, put it
in a cooler or a blanket to insulate it from the cold. Keep it
out of the humidity. Don't stack things on your paint box.
Be kind to your paint, and it will reward you with many good times.
Be cruel to it, and it will fly anywhere but where you want
it to go.
Higher price doesn't
always mean higher quality. The probability that you'll get a more
consistent product exists, but not much else. Like most
things, the "middle of the road" is usually a good bet. Don't
overpay for the same thing just because it is more expensive
or has a shinier box. Don't underpay just because it is
cheap. Get to know certain brands or manufacturers. Ask
a friend that bought the $70 case of paint if you can shoot a couple
of balls through your gun - just to see. Ask the same from a
friend that bought the $30 case of paint - just to see. Trade
a couple of rounds of the $50 case of paint with them - just to see.
You may all be surprised!
Get friendly with
your local paintball store/vendor! MANY times, manufacturers
will sell off "test runs" of high-end paint in unmarked "white box"
cases. They may have changed the fill to a 10% thinner fill to
see how it stood up to tests, and now they're getting rid of good
paint that they can't label it as XYZ paint because it isn't made
with the specific XYZ formula. Other times, manufacturers will
make what I see as the "same" paint and sell it for half the price.
For example... there's a paintball ... we'll call it "Sonic" - a
great paintball. The same company makes "Crunk" - also a great
paintball. Sonic is $50+- per case, and Crunk is $30+- per
case. Same fill. Same shell. The difference - - -
Crunk's shell is made from the leftover Sonic material. Think
biscuit dough.... You roll out a sheet or dough and cut out
circles. After you've cut out all of the circles you can get,
you wad it back up, flatten out the dough again and cut a couple of
more circles out. The same thing is happening here. They
wad up the "Sonic" shell's "dough" and cut out more circles and ..
viola .. you've got "Crunk." Know your local field and ask
around for special "insider information" like this. You may be
surprised at what's out there.
FYI - I'm not a store or even in the paint business. I have
games where people bring in a variety of paints - that's it.
If you're going to play the game right, you need hints and help to
make it an enjoyable experience - hopefully without breaking the
bank while doing it, wasting money on inferior products or ending up
ruining somebody's clothes and spending $30 for paint and $40 to
replace somebody's clothes.
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